Why we don’t make adjustable rings

Our customers often ask us ‘Why don’t you make adjustable rings?’ 
We do make some, but not many!

We know that you like the idea of adjustable rings, as it eliminates the problem of getting the wrong ring size. This is especially important if you are purchasing a gift — it’s not easy to buy someone a ring and get the sizing right! 

Another reason people like adjustable rings is the flexibility. If your hands tend to swell with heat or exercise, you like the idea of being able to change your ring size accordingly. 

So yes, we understand completely why you like adjustable rings! 

Unfortunately, adjustable rings are problematic because:

• they are uncomfortable

• the stone may fall out

• it is more likely to break

Let us explain further. 

Adjustable rings are uncomfortable 

We’ve spoken to hundreds of jewellery customers and the verdict is unanimous: adjustable rings dig and cause discomfort. 

The metal edges of the ring tend to dig into your fingers and can be distracting. Customers tell us (and we know from personal experience) that they tend to constantly fiddle with adjustable rings to make them feel more comfortable. The constant pressure makes it even more likely that it will snap or the stone will fall out. 

Stones may fall out from adjustable rings 

Because you are constantly moving the metal as you adjust the ring size, the setting can be compromised. 

The movement of the metal in an adjustable ring means that the bevel or the glue can move too — meaning the fixing of the stone can crack, and oops! Goodbye to your lovely gemstone. 

Rings with gemstones, especially larger stones, can be vulnerable to falling out. If you’ve invested a good amount of money into a beautiful ring that you intend to wear for years to come? You absolutely do not want the stone falling out. 

Frankly, we don’t like taking the risk. 

Adjustable rings are more likely to break 

All that twisting and shaping, over and over, weakens the structural integrity of your ring. And if it happens too often, your ring will break. 

After all, metal is not made to move — it’s solid and strong. So if you continually adjust the ring size, it will snap eventually. 

This means that if you want to invest in a ring you want to wear for years to come, you are better off avoiding adjustable versions. 

How ring settings impact breakability 

Our rings have different kinds of settings to hold the stone in place. 

• bezel rings: with an edge or rim that encompasses the entire stone

• half bezel: a rim that partially encompasses the stone

• claws: smaller talons set apart that grip the stone in place
  
  

Sometimes, the stone is also kept in place using glue. This acts as a secondary reinforcement, alongside the bezel or claw. However, with high-quality gemstones we don’t like to use glue, because you can see it through the translucence of the stone and it reduces the beautiful sparkling effect 

So regardless of the setting, every time you adjust the ring size, the entire ring is moving and shifting. The bezel or the claw may break or give way, leading to a lost stone. In the case of glue, it may crack. 

What kind of rings are adjustable? 

We have extensively tested this and we find that rings with smaller gemstones, with a higher metal-to-stone ratio can withstand adjustment. 

This ring has a thick metal band and a comparatively smaller gemstone, making it suitable for adjustment. 

Rings that have a band not directly attached to the stone setting can also be gently adjustable without compromising the setting. 

The tip with adjustable rings is to remember - GENTLY!

 

 

Adjustable rings suit cheaper stones 

We know that if you are spending hundreds on high-quality stones, we don’t want to take any risks! 

But for cheaper stones, with the latest fashion designs, we can take the risk of replacing them if the stone falls out. 

Quite simply, for a cheaper stone, there is less risk to our business if we have to send you a replacement if it breaks. 

 

Opaque stones are also more suitable 

Opaque stones are better to use in adjustable rings because we can reinforce them with glue. The glue won’t impact the appearance of the stone like it does with translucent, sparkly stones. 

This red coral adjustable ring features opaque gems, so we can use glue to hold them in place alongside the bezel — reducing the risk of stones falling out. 

 

We hope this helps you understand why we don’t like to take risks with adjustable rings! 

Janine and the Desiderate team

 

Have you seen our beautiful rings?